Los Glaciares

Autor: , 13.4.2017

Argentinská Patagonie byla příjemným překvapením. Na rozdíl od Chile, kdy se od letošní sezóny významně zpřísnila pravidla a musíte si dlouho předem rezervovat místa v kempu na trase treku bez ohledu na případné změny letů nebo nepřízeň počasí. Je zakázáno dokonce zůstat více jak jednu noc na jednom místě… Tady stále zůstávají kempy zdarma a zůstat můžete třeba celou sezónu. 

Argentinská Patagonie je jiná i charakterem přírody. Jsou tu stromy, dokonce mnoho stromů,  které vypadají jako malé nebo větší bonsaje či mohutné vysoké stromy jako ze starobylého lesa Fangornu. Botanicky všechny rodu Nothofagus. Zahradník by musel mnoho let vytvářet takové japonské zahrady, které tu jsou na mnoha místech a které si tu příroda tvoří sama. Navíc teď během podzimu se lístky zbavují do žlutých, červených a dalších odstínů. Fantastická podívaná. 

Argentina se nám odměnila i počasím. Tak krásné babí léto zde dlouho nepamatuji. A podmínky pro focení mimořádné. Takže Patagonie není jen místem, kde stále fouká a prší, ale dají se zažít i teplé a slunné dny a když se zadaří, tak i krásné babí léto. 

Ale i zde již začínají redukovat trasy, kam je možné jít. Některá zajímavá místa jsou uzavřena “z důvodu obnovy”. 

Velká část Patagonie se rozkládá v nízkých nadmořských výškách. Pohybovali jsme se mezi pouhými 200 až 500 metry nad mořem, výjimečně pod hranicí 900 metrů. O to více vynikají nejvyšší strmé vrcholy. Těm zde dominuje nejvyšší hora Fitz Roy s více jak 3300 metry. Brutální ostrá žulová výzva pro horolezce. Počasí bývá nevyzpytatelné a hora bývá celá vidět maximálně 50 dnů v roce. My měli ohromné štěstí a Fitz Roy se nám ukazoval několik dní v plné kráse. Fotograficky si nelze snad přát více… 

A fotografů zde bylo v tomto období skutečně hodně. Dokonce jsme tu potkali i Marka Adamuse, krajinářskou “světovou celebritu”. Fotograf, který posunul svoje fotografie zpracováním spíše ke grafické “tvorbě” a jehož fotky mnozí obdivují a mnozí kritizují za to, že jeho fotografie už nemají s realitou mnoho společného. Nicméně každý, kdo se trochu více zajímá o krajinářskou fotografií jeho tvorbu zná. 

Prý není tak neobvyklé na řadě míst spatřit pumu jihoamerickou. Dokonce si řada turistů zavěšovala vaky s jídlem na noc na laně na strom. Ovšem tím důvodem nebyla puma, ale malí drží hlodavci, kteří mi vlezli v noci do batohu na oříšky a sušené ovoce. Naštěstí prokousali díru jen do sáčku a ne do batohu… 

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