Trek první – Colca Canon

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Cestovní kanceláře v Arequipě nabízejí třídenní výlet do Colca Canonu za zhruba 40USD. To se nám zdalo příliš.

Zakoupili jsme podrobnou mapu za 40Sol a místním busem za 15Sol jsme vyrazili po vlastní ose. Stoupali jsme po prašné silnici, překonali jsme nejvyšší bod 4 800 m n.m. a dosáhli altiplana ( tak se v Peru nazývá náhorní plošina ). Po 6ti hodinové cestě jsme vystoupili ve vesnici Pinchollo. Dali jsme se dohromady s dvojicí cestovatelů – s Kristinou z Austrálie a Shayem z Izraele – a zůstali spolu celé tři dny.
Brzy ráno jsme vyrazili na místo zvané Cruz del Condor, odkud lze pozorovat ráno do 9ti hodin jihoamerické kondory. Měli jsme štěstí. Více než hodinu jsme mohli sledovat tyto nádherné dravce plachtící v ohromné výšce nad kaňonem a nad našimi hlavami. Tento pohled patři k nezapomenutelným zážitkům…
Samice kondora snáší jedno vejce za dva roky. V Bolivii a nevíme jestli i v Peru, si lidé věší tyto překrásné ptáky vycpané nad dveře domu pro štěstí. To ale rozhodně není pro štěstí kondorů…
Stopli jsme si náklaďák a přemístili se k začátku sestupu na dno kaňonu. To jsme byli ve výšce 3 550m n.m. Následoval nekonečný, přes 3 hodiny trvající sestup k mostu přes řeku Colca, která tento kaňon vytvořila. Sestoupili jsme do výšky 2 160(!)m n.m. Pokračovali jsme do vesničky San Juan Pueblo, kde jsme poobědvali a vystoupali do 2 600m do další vesnice, kde jsme přenocovali u vesničanů. Brzy ráno jsme sestoupili do 2 200m do místa, které je nejen podle názvu Oasa. Zde jsme se několik hodin povalovali na trávě u bazénu a připravovali se na závěrečný výstup. Nikdo si ho však nedokázal představit, i když jsme měli kolmou stěnu neustále před sebou. Následoval nejhorší výstup v našem živote. Zatím…
Vystoupali jsme z nejniššího bodu toho dne 2 140m do 3 200m. Kdo nastoupal více než tisíc výškových metrů za tři hodiny, ten ví, o čem je řeč. Ostatní nechť si to zkusí. Za tmy jsme dorazili do Cabanaconde, dali si výbornou večeři, pivo a čaj z koky a šli na noční autobus. Podle informací měl jet přímo do Arequipy. Ale jak už to v těchto zemích bývá, po příjezdu ve 21.30 hodin do Chivay jsme se dozvěděli, že autobus pokračuje až v 1 hodinu po půlnoci. Naštěstí jsme mohli přestoupit do jiného autobusu, který odjížděl po 22. hodině. Jako španělsky nemluvící jsme prohráli boj o sedačky a museli se přemístit na zadní sedadla. Cesta zpět opět patři k nezapomenutelným zážitkům, protože na drncající cestě jsme nemohli usnout ani na minutu a museli si dávat pozor, abychom si nepřekousli jazyk. Ve 2 hodiny jsme dorazili polomrtví do Arequipy.
Na tomto místě učiníme dvě poznámky:
1) Během našeho života nás v noci budily nejrůznější zvuky, ale poprvé jsme nemohli spát díky pískajícím, pobíhajícím a jinak rámusícím morčatům. Přáli jsme jim brzkou fiestu, protože skončí na pekáči jako pochoutka. Podruhé nás budili zvracející domorodci v autobusu. Cestování jim zjevně nedělá dobře, ale naštěstí pro nás, jako zkušení jezdci používají igelitové pytlíky.
2) Ke kulturním zvykům peruánských indiánů rozhodně nepatři pravidelná koupel. Podezříváme je, že ji mnozí neuskuteční ani jednou za rok. Důkazem je neuvěřitelný čichový vjem v plném autobusu…

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