Údolí Nubry a jezero Pangong…

Autor: , 25.6.2018

… jsou zajímavá místa v sousedních údolích od Lehu. Cesta do údolí řeky Nubry vede klikatou silnicí přes nejvýše položené sjízdné sedlo na světě Khardung La ve výšce 5602 m/m. I při celkem dobré předchozí aklimatizaci se v této nadmořské výšce necítím nejlépe…

Za sedlem se silnice klikatí až na dno údolí a vede k širokému soutoku řek Šijok s Nubrou. Pokračovali jsme proti toku řeky Šijok do hlavního města údolí Diskitu, kde je gompa ze 17. století. Po prohlídce jsme pokračovali dále proti proudu do oblasti pískových dun připomínající velké pouště. Hlavní atrakcí jsou zde velbloudi. Ne divocí, ale jako zábava pro turisty, kteří si platí za krátké vyjížďky. Dosti příšerná komerční atrakce na jinak zajímavém místě. Brzy jsme prchli dost znechuceni a odjeli do stanového kempu.

V nedalekém muslimském obchůdků jsme si koupili ladakhské silné pivo Goodfather, které majitel vytáhl z “pod pultu” a vzpomněli si na naši cestu do Kašmíru: Už při příjezdu do Džamu se stahovala těžká bouřková mračna a když nás řidič vysadil z autobusu, zvedla se proti nám prachovo – písečná stěna. Nebylo skoro vidět a vítr hnal prach si očí tak, že jsme ani nebyli schopni přejít silnici. Zapadli jsme do prvního otevřeného podniku. Potemělý bar, kde jsme možná první bílí hosté, ale nabízel pivo. Po dlouhé jízdě busem, vedru a bouřce jsme žízniví vypili docela rychle každý tři piva. Majitel baru se s námi fotil a ostatní hosté buď spali na stole nebo na nás zírali. Místní pivo má totiž jeden háček – varianta “strong” má obsah alkoholu 8% a objem 650 ml…tedy co do množství, téměř 4 piva, co do alkoholu, tak skoro 8… Výsledek se dostavil poměrně brzy a Michal měl trochu práce dostat rozjařený zbytek výpravy v pořádku do hotelu 🙂

Tentokrát to ale takový průběh nemělo. Navíc ani ladakhské a ani jiné místní pivo, o to víc ve variantě strong, není žádný velký chuťový zážitek a připomíná líh nalitý do piva. Takže jsme brzy ulehli a konečně si užili po rušných a hlučných městech v noci trochu vesnického klidu…

Ráno jsme si vyšlápli do blízkého malého buddhistického chrámu. Když se musí někam namáhavě vystoupat, je téměř jisté, že tam nebude žádný indický turista 🙂 Potkali jsme tam ale již po několikáté příjemný manželský pár z Česka.

Cestou jsme si chtěli vyfotit zavalené domy ve vesničce Khalsar. Měli jsme opět velké štěstí a přimotali jsme se k významné návštěvě Kirimboče, po Dalaj Lamovi druhého nejvyššího představitele této větve tibetského buddhismu. Devadesátiletý, milé vyhlížející pán, byl s úctou přivítán a pohoštěn vesničany ve slavnostním oblečení, pro které to byla zcela mimořádná událost.

Jeli jsme zpět po proudu řeky Šijok a potom mnoho hodin pokračovali až k jezeru Pangong. Tam jsme přenocovali ve stanu a protože bylo dobré světlo, věnovali jsme se focení jezera stejně rozlehlého jako majestátní vrcholy Himálaje.

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