Den osmý a devátý – letovisko Swakopmund, lachtani a ústřice

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Po ránu jsme projížděli nejdříve hornatou částí pouště Namib, poté úzkými proláklinami a údolími, abycho se dostali na její plochou a velmi suchou část, která nás po dlouhé a nezáživné cestě přivedla zpět k pobřeží, do jediného skutečného letoviska Namibijců – městečka Swakopmund. Ubytování jsme měli v B&B kousek od pobřeží, s příjemnou zahradou a terasou. Odpoledne jsme se prošli městečkem a na pláži si dali v podvečer výborné kalamáry.

Další den jsme brzy vstávali, abychom včas dojeli do 35 kilometrů vzdáleného Walwis Bay. Ten si jako trategický přístav, který byl v minulosti součástí Kapska, udržela Jihoafriská republika i po získání nezávislosti Namibie. Předala ho až v roce 1992.

V přístavu jsme nasedli na člun a doprovázeni nádhernými pelikány vyplupli za kolonií lachtanů a delfíny. Ochočený lachtan si nás vylezl prohlédnout až na člun a zúčastnil se části vyjížďky. Laguna Walvis Bay je stará více jak 5 000 let a je tak nejstarší zde na pobřeží. Je domovem mnoha druhů ptáků. Pokud není v Etoshi dosatek vody, hnízdí zde plameňáci. Na více otevřeném oceánu jsme závodili s mnoha malými delfíny. Žije tu i velká kolonie lachtanů. Místní vody jsou mimořádně bohaté a jsou ideální pro chov ústřic té nejvyšší kvality. Co jsme nestihli v Luderlitzu, mohli jsme si bohatě vynahradit teď. Přímo na člunu jsme ochutnali výtečné ústřice a zapili ho neméně výtečným suchým jihoafrickým sektem. Pro nás na štěstí, ne všichni pasažeři jedli ústřice… Průvodce byl spokojen, protože jsme zládli celou zakoupenou zásobu.


Nedaleko pobřeží zde na kůlech stojí velká dřevěná plošina, na kterou 11 měsíců kálí ptáci, hlavně kormoráni. 12. měsíc se “sklízí” kvalitní guano. Velmi dobrý business pro majitele, ve kterém jde o hovno…

Po návratu do přístavu jsme si tam ještě zakoupili bednu skvělých místních ústřic, přejeli dále podél pobřeží a při pozorování plameňáků si ještě znovu vychutnali bohatost oceánu koncentrovanou do ústřic. Ústřice se vyvážejí hlavně do Číny a střední Východ, kde za ně platí velké peníze. Snahou je vývoz do Evropy, ale “Frantíci”, zřejmě v rámci omezení dovozu, odvedli skvělou práci a dovoz do EU není možný. Zřejmě si jsou dobře vědomi, že namibijské ústřice mohou minimálně konkurovat těm francouzským.

V pobřežních vodách se začíná těžit zemní plyn, tak snad to nebude mít dopad na místní ekosystém…no nejspíš bude.

Po návratu na Swakopmundu jsem musel vyřešit opravu zvolna se rozpadajícího Nissanu. Problém se vyřešil celkem rychle a po nákupu zásob na další cestu, jsme zašli na výbornou rybí večeři na konci dlouhého starého mola.

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