Poslední hodiny v Peru

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Nočním autobusem jsme se přemístili již naposledy do Limy. Pro větší pohodlí a na základě našich zkušeností z nočních přejezdů jsme si zakoupili “první třídu”, ale tentokrát jsme nepochopili, proč se tak nazývá.

Autobus byl nepohodlný, sedačky bylo možno sklopit jen málo nebo vůbec. Autobus se pouze bez zastávky řítil ohromnou rychlostí nocí do Limy.
Neubytovali jsme se v centrální Limě, ale v San Isidro vedle Miraflores. Jsou to “lepší čtvrti” Limy. Ukázalo se i sluníčko a tak přeci jen hlavní město vypadalo lépe a veseleji.
V pondělí jsme se vypravili do “Museo de Oro del Peru” – muzea zlata. Sbírky jsou soukromé a vlastní je rodina Mujica Gallo. Vstupné je pěkných 20Sol. Sbírky jsou ale neuvěřitelně bohaté: ve vitrínách jsou desítky a desítky exponátů. Nejsou to jen zlaté předměty a šperky, ale i různá ozdobná i praktická keramika, zbraně a oděvy. Mo?ná překvapí, jak častým motivem je sexuální život. Ten je ale častý asi u všech kultur…( Velmi zajímavý článek o sexuálním chování andských indiánů v minulých dobách naleznete v časopisu Koktejl, říjen 1999: “Indiánské milování” od M.Stingla).
Zde si člověk uvědomí, kolik bohatství a nejrůznějších věcí skrývaly hrobky, chrámy a pyramidy. Je toho tolik, že člověk je po dvouhodinové prohlídce tolik vyčerpán, že mu už nezbudou síly na stejně rozsáhlé sbírky textilu v dalším patře a kolekci všemožných zbraní jen proběhne. Snad se zastaví u samurajských zbraní, u revolveru Fidela Castra nebo u osobních zbraní nacistických pohlavárů.
Navečer jsme ještě navštívili indiánský trh v Miraflores, kde je možno koupit většinu věcí, se kterými jsme se setkávali na tržištích v různých částech Peru. Ovšem za cenu trochu vyšší.
V úterý před odletem jsem si prohledli sbírky “Museo de la Nación”. Nejsou tak bohaté, jako sbírky soukromých muzeí, dávají však mnohem lepší přehled o jednotlivých etapách kultur na území starého Peru a jsou zde rovněž modely všech významných starých staveb. Znovu jsme se mohli vrátit na místa, která jsme v průběhu měsíce navštívili a zároveň jsme si uvědomili i přes místa, která jsme nenavštívili, jaká ohromná archeologická bohatství Peru má. V tomto muzeu lze vidět “archeologický objev století” – hrob pána ze Sipánu. Byl odkryt v roce 1987 zcela neporušen. Kromě kostry panovníka zde byly kostry tří mladých žen, dvou pomocníků, sluhy, ochránce, dítěte, psa a dvou lam. Zřejmě museli sloužit pánovi až za hrob…
Po prohlídce ještě zbývalo vyzvednout letenky na naší ambasádě. Tentokrát však setkání nebylo tak vstřícné a milé, jako na začátku cesty. Narazili jsme na jakousi hloupou českou sekretářku, která měla pocit, že je více něž konzul a předvedla výstup povýšených českých byrokratů, kteří stále nepochopili, že tam jsou pro nás a z našich daní. První signály návratu do vlasti?
Peru je krásná země. Za ten měsíc cestování jsme toho viděli mnoho, ale hodně ještě zbývá. Například celá oblast Amazonie. Tak snad příště?

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