Qom

Autor: , 17.5.2015

Let do Dubaje proběhl klidně a standardně – část na letišti ztracených a dezorientovaných členů výpravy může mluvit o štěstí, že spoj odlétal až ráno, takže bylo dost času na to, abychom se všichni před odletem zase sešli. Já jsem nechápal, co se přihodilo v letadle za tu chvíli, kdy jsem si na pár  minut zdřímnul a kde se tam vzalo najednou tolik prázdných lahviček…

Letištní formality proběhly rychle, výměnili jsme peníze, dostali jsme za ně svazky místních Rialů a odjeli do Qomu.
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Qom je největším poutním místem v Íránu. Je zároveň i centrem šíitské teologické výuky.
V místě hrobky Fátemeh, sestry Emána Rezy, která zemřela v 9.století, byl později vystavěn komplex mešit. Nad hrobkou byla zbudována zlatá kopule, která vytváří dominantu komplexu.
Studoval a působil zde velký Ajattoláh Chomejní, duchovní vůdce íránské revoluce.
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Město je tedy velmi nábožensky konzervativní.
Ideální místo pro první vstup do této oblasti a vytvoření základní představy o fungování íránské společnosti. A podle očekávání to není žádné drama ani na tomto místě. Ženy samozřejmě musí na veřejnosti chodit zahalené, ale vidíme hodně, především mladších žen, které nosí “odvážnější” kratší variantu. Ženy na ulicích potkáme i večer. Mnohé jsou dokonce bez mužského doprovodu. Neslyšíme ani tolik typické modlitby muezínů.
Írán je totiž jako jeden z mála muslimských zemí výrazně většinově šíitský. I to bude příčinou uvolněnější atmosféry než země sunitské. To je pohled poněkud zjednodušený. Asi jako výklad, ze tyto větve islámu se liší v počtu a uznávání imánů následovníků proroka Mohameda. Zatímco šíitové jich mají 12, sunité 4, ale 3 neuznávají. To není jediný rozdíl, který se projevuje například i v rituálech. Je to rozpor, který je na pozadí politických i vojenských konfliktů v této části světa mezi státy i uvnitř nich. Pro nás je obtížné se v těchto konfliktech zorientovat, ale kdo má dnes kromě historiků jasno například v konfliktech mezi katolíky a protestanty u nás v Evropě.
Napříč ještě může působit i etnický faktor. V Íránu je více jak polovina obyvatelstva perského původu. Arabů je pouze o něco více než 2%. Označit Peršana za Araba nebo si objednat arabskou kávu je zde hodně citlivá záležitost…

Íránci jsou i vůči “nevěřícím” cizincům vstřícní a přátelští. Jako v málokteré zemi. Alespoň podle toho, co zažíváme. Úsměv, pozdrav, snaha o konverzaci, pokud jim to jazyková výbava dovolí, pozvání na čaj a radost z toho, že je všechny nepovažujeme za teroristy a že jsme navštívili jejich zemi.
Jen na to vedro si budu muset zvyknout… A bude hůř, protože pojedeme stále na jih.
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