Mahé

Autor: , 25.4.2013

Jedeme hlavně odpočívat a užívat si, ale jistě se najde nějaká možnost, jak z rodinné dovolené udělat “boj o přežití” nebo alespoň krátkodobé peklo 🙂

Informace jsme čerpali z našeho oblíbeného Lonely Planet “Mauricius, Reunion & Seychelles”, ovšem ještě 4. vydání z ledna 2001. Dále z webové stránky exotika.orbion.cz od Elišky Boevové a vyprávění na MOJECESTY.NET

Pro případného čtenáře našeho vyprávění mohou být zajímavé konfrontace s výše uvedenými Zdroji, čímž se nechci dotknout autorů, ale ukázat, jak je vnímání subjektivní, přestože reálie zůstávají stejné (nebo se od té doby již změnily, protože turistický “development” stále pokračuje).

Aktuální kurz k červenci 2008 byl za 1 Euro 11,79 seychelských rupií. Zdroje uvádí, že “černý” kurz byl 1€ : 10-12 Rsa neustále vám někdo “exchange” nabízí. Zatím jsme žádnou takovou nabídku nedostali a tudíž nám neoficiální kurz není znám, ale čísla nám říkají, že se z neoficiálního kurzu zřejmě stal oficiální.

Podnebí je během července a srpna nejsušší. To ale neznamená, že je hezky. Je sice teplo, ale většinu dne je více či méně zataženo, občas sluníčko, občas sprchne (hlavně v noci). Teplota je kolem 25°C,tedy příjemně, tropické sluníčko (pokud vyleze) má sílu. Je to ?high season?, ale spíše díky prázdninovým měsícům v evropských zemích než počasí zde. Teplota vody je rovněž kolem 25°C, ale díky větru jsou poměrně velké vlny a na mnoha plážích se díky tomu nedá koupat. Podobně to je s potápěním – přestože jsou zde jedny z nejhezčích lokalit, v tomto období díky silným vlnám, proudům a malé viditelnosti to vypadá, že nám příliš ponorů do deníku nepřibude.

Z deníčku Mařenky:

úterý 29.7.2008

1.den

Přiletěly jsme v 7.00 hodin místního času. Ubytovaly jsem se v krásném hotýlku v pokoji s palandou a šly jsme spát. Za pár hodin jsme s probraly a šly jsme na procházku po pláži. Když jsme se vrátily byl už večer a šly jsme spát.

Na Mahé jsme cestování zvládali místními autobusy. Jednak je to mnohem zajímavější způsob přemísťování a jednak mnohem levnější (3 Rs ať jedete kamkoli) než taxi nebo půjčení vozu (35 Rs –  45 Rs/den podle druhu vozu a délky půjčení). Zdroj uvádí, že takováto přeprava je lehce chaotická a je nutno přijít na zastávku a čekat, až přijede autobus.

Pokud ale pochopíte systém linek a lokálních názvů a na centrálním nádraží vyzvednete jízdní řád, zjistíte, že prakticky všechna místa jsou dobře dostupná a že až na malé výjimky je jízdní řád dodržován (spíše jezdí o pár minut dříve).

Druhou věcí je samotná jízda a vůbec způsob ježdění na ostrovech. Komu ale nevadí naprosto zběsilá jízda, předjíždění do zatáček, za které není vidět, jízda úzkými silničkami, prudkými serpentinami, řev brzd a motoru, bude naprosto spokojen s tímto druhem dopravy.

Je třeba opravdu pečlivě vybírat pláže v tomto období. Obecně platí, že malé chráněné pláže jsou v tomto období nejlepší.

Údajně nejhezčí pláž je Petit Anse. Vypravili jsem se tam hned druhý den. Dostupná rovněž pěšky, ale došli jsme omylem na jinou, docela pěknou pláž Anse Gouvernemental s opuštěným, dříve asi luxusním resortem The Plantation. Polozarostlé cesty, dětské prolézačky, plážové bary a zelenou vodou plný hotelový bazén působí lehce katastroficky i depresivně. Musíme se tam ještě vypravit na konci pobytu a trefit tu správnou pláž.

Z deníčku Mařenky:

Středa 30.7.2008

2.den

Dobré ráno. Je tu krásně. Snídaně byla ůžasná. Hned po snídani jsme šli na autobusovou zastávku kde jsem čekali asi hodinu a půl na autobus. Konečně pro nás autobus přijel. Za chvíli jsme dorazili do malého městečka kde jsme si dali oběd. Po obědě jsme šli na pláž. Cesta byla krásná šli jsme pralesem. Když jsme vylezli z pralesa ohromilo nás nádherné moře ale byly moc velké vlny takže jsme se nekoupali a raději jsme jeli zpátky do naší restaurace kde jsme se dobře najedli.

Dobrou noc.

Kouzelná pláž na Mahe je Anse Major. Je dostupná pouze pěšky z konečné zastávky linky 21 do Bel Ombre. Z Danzil 2,5 kilometru zabere tak 1,5 hodiny náročnější chůze podél pobřeží v národním parku Morne Seychellois. Odměnou je nádherná bílá pláž, kam podle Zdroje chodí hlavně místní. No, nebyl tam z místních nikdo, zato na pozdní odpoledne poměrně dost turistů (na seychelské poměry ? s naší čtyřčlennou rodinou 8). A protože bylo dost hodin a stmívá se po šesté hodině, po vykoupání následoval hodně svižný úprk zpět, aby se z toho nestal zápas o přežití nad poměrně vysokými a strmými srázy…

Z deníčku Mařenky:

Čtvrtek 31.7.2008

3.den

Ráno jsme vstali a šli jsme na snídani. Po snídani jsme jeli do Viktorie. Cesta byla strašná Kačenka si v autobuse trochu ublinkla a já jsem se zblila když jsme tam přijeli. Ve Viktotii jsme se najedli a jeli na pláž. Po chvilce jsme dojeli do vesničky z které jsme šli pralesem na pláž. Cesta byla byla moc hezká šli jsme chvíli pralesem kde jsme viděli spoustu zajímavých květin a taky jsme viděli jak roste divoký ananas. Za chvíli jsme vylezli z pralesa a šli jsme po kamené cestičce. Za chvíli se před námi objevilo odpočívadlo s krásným výhledem na moře. Asi tak ještě čtvrt hodiny nám trvalo než jsme sešli dolů k moři. Moře bylo nádherně modré. Vykoupali jsme se a šli jsme zase zpátky na autobus a museli jsme si pospíšit abychom ho stihli a samozřejmě nám ujel před nosem ale naštěstí jel hned další kterým jsme se vypravili do Viktorie ze které jsme jeli domů do našeho hotýlku a dali si večeři.

Třetí nádhernou pláží na Mahe je pláž Port Launay stejnojmenného mořského národního parku. Písek je velmi jemný, takže na šnorchlování to moc není, neboť viditelnosti je tak jeden metr…Jinak to má být rovněž dobrá potápěčská lokalita.

Z deníčku Mařenky:

Pátek1.8.2008

4.den

Ráno jsme se probrali a šli jsme na snídani. Po snídani jsme šli na autobus. Autobusem jsme jeli na pláž. Na pláži byl nádherně jemný písek. Lehl jsme si a táta si lehl do hamaky a my jsme se šly vykoupat. Za chvíli jsme vylezly z vody a táta šel na oběd a my jsme si malovaly a dělali sochy z písku. Za hodinu se táta vrátil a byl pěkně naštvanej protože šel do obchodu, kde se ptal kde je nějaká restaurace a v obchodě mu řekli že u kostela jenže kostel byl daleko asi 2 kilometry. A když táta dorazil tak mu tam řekli že jídlo nedávají s sebou a mezitím tátovi ujel autobus takže šel zase 2 kilometry zpátky a strašně si odřel nohy. Nakonec koupil housky a konzervy. Na kterých jsme si taky pochutnali. Pak jsme se šli koupat. V 18.00 jsme jeli do hotelu kde jsme se najedli.

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